Eyewitness Travel Family Guide Florida Read online

  The hardy pioneers who settled south of Florida’s west coast compared the area’s beaches and waterways to those of Italy, and so they named their settlement Naples-on-the-Gulf. Today, the city’s architecture and cuisine have an Italian flavor.

  Once a rough-and-tumble Indian trading post, Naples has evolved into a haven for vacationers seeking golf, shopping, and fine dining. The heart of downtown, known as Old Naples, has two fashionable streets – Fifth Avenue South and Third Street South. Most of the town’s superb restaurants are located here. Near Third Street South, the Naples Pier stretches into the Gulf of Mexico from the beach’s soft white sands.

  Northeast of the downtown area, the Children’s Museum of Naples is located in North Collier Regional Park, also home to the Sun-n-Fun Lagoon water park. In the museum, kids can drive a facsimile of the Naples Trolley, climb up to a tree house, walk into a seashell, and chill out in an igloo.

  With the Everglades at its back door, Naples sees plenty of wildlife. However, the easiest way to spot animals – local and from as far away as Madagascar – is to head to Naples Zoo. Special animal shows, giraffe hand-feeding, and a boat excursion to Primate Island add adventure to a visit.

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  >>Letting Off Steam

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  >>Kids' Corner

  Kids’ Corner

  Turtle tutorial

  Sea turtles make nests on Florida’s beaches from April to October. At night the females dig holes in which to lay their eggs, which look like Ping-Pong balls. Each turtle lays about 100 eggs, and the heat of the sand determines whether each egg hatches as a boy or a girl. An adult leatherback turtle can weigh up to 907 kg (2,000 lb). Sea turtles can live to be 150 years old!

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  7. Marco Island

  Indians, fishermen, and one cool cat

  The jumping-off point for Ten Thousand Islands, a maze of protected islands to the south, Marco Island prides itself on its fishing and boating. Rent or charter a boat from one of the island’s marinas and get out on the water. At its east end, the fishing town of Goodland retains the salty character of old-time fishing communities.

  The Calusa Indians fished these waters for 1,500 years, until they were wiped out by European invaders. They built one center of their kingdom on Marco Island, as revealed by archaeological excavations in 1895. One important find, a carved wood effigy known as the Key Marco Cat, now resides in the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C. Families can drive over the top of one 58-ft (18-m) ancient shell mound and follow trails along another at the Otter Mound Preserve.

  Two public beach accesses welcome visitors to Marco’s wide beaches. Tigertail Beach has playgrounds and a sheltered lagoon that draws lots of birds, especially in winter.

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  8. Everglades National Park

  Florida’s land down under

  View from the observation tower

  Displaced Native Americans and outlaws were among the first to settle in this forbidding land riddled with swamps at the very bottom of Florida. Later came slick developers who wanted to drain the precious wetland in favor of building. Luckily, Marjory Douglas Stoneman stepped up in the 1940s to make sure that this special territory would forever be protected as the Everglades National Park. Today, the park safeguards 2,200 sq miles (3,540 sq km), and more than 1,000 species of fish, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and mammals.

  Key Sights

  1. Flamingo Visitor Center See the exhibits and pick up maps for exploring trails and waterways. Besides a marina and store, the center also has a campground on Florida Bay.

  2. Trails along the drive to Flamingo The 38-mile (60-km) Main Park Road passes four major trailheads for short hikes: Pinelands Trail, Pa-hay-okee Overlook, Mahogany Hammock Trail, and West Lake.

  3. Long Pine Key Arguably the prettiest spot in the Everglades, this area’s forest of pine trees is perfect for picnicking, or an overnight stay in the well-kept campground.

  4. Royal Palm Visitor Center The first stop along the Main Park Road to Flamingo, this is one of the best places to spot wildlife. The popular Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo trails begin here.

  5. Ernest Coe Visitor Center/Main Entrance This center lies outside the park gates and its interactive exhibits make a good introduction to the park.

  6. Shark Valley Entrance/Visitor Center Hike, bike, or take the tram tour from here around the 15-mile (24-km) loop trail. Climb the observation tower for fine views.

  7. Gulf Coast Entrance/Visitor Center Hiking, boating, kayaking, and biking tours depart from this west coast gateway in the historic fishing town of Everglades City.

  Left Ernest Coe Visitor Center Middle Flamingo Visitor Center Right Royal Palm Visitor Center

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  Kids’ Corner

  Croc or gator?

  How can you tell a crocodile from an alligator? Luckily, you don’t have to get too close to distinguish one from the other! The American alligator has dark skin and a wide snout for cracking turtle shells.

  A croc is lighter in color than a gator, with a narrower, pointier snout and a flatter profile in the water.

  When a gator closes its mouth, the teeth in its top jaw are the only ones visible. When a croc closes its mouth, you can see its distinctive overbite: the teeth of both jaws are visible.

  How Do You Spell “Everglades”?

  Write out Everglades National Park, leaving spaces between the letters. For each letter in the park’s name, think of something you saw or learned about that starts with that letter. Write them down, until you’ve used up all 22 letters with no repeated words.

  Collecting birds

  Serious birders keep what they call a life list – a record of every species of bird they have seen in the wilds during their lifetime. The Everglades, with 366 species, is the best place to start your Florida life list.

  With the help of a ranger, see how many birds you can spot. Print the Florida bird list at fl.audubon.org/PDFs/birds_checklist.pdf, and check off all the birds you saw.

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  9. Biscayne National Park

  Water, water, everywhere

  This vast, mostly underwater refuge encompasses the third-longest stretch of coral reef in the world. Geographically, the park kicks off the Florida Keys, and, for outdoor enthusiasts, it has it all – boating, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, hiking, camping, and also a slice of history dating back to the Tequesta Indians. However, it takes some effort to enjoy what’s best about the park, namely what’s under and out on the water. Biscayne’s two main islands – Boca Chita and Elliott Key – are accessible only by boat, but worth the trip to learn about some quirky elements of local history, hike trails, go fishing, and camp overnight.

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  Kids’ Corner

  Plant a tree

  When paddling among the saltwater mangroves, look out for long, green, bean-like seeds bobbing in the water. Known as props (short for propagules), they drop off of mangrove trees. If you find one, stick the sprouting end into mud to give life to another tree.

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  10. Miccosukee Indian Village

  Going native

  Palmetto dolls and beadwork for sale in the Miccosukee Indian Village

  The Miccosukee Indian tribe has lived at the edge of the Everglades on a narrow strip of land since the Seminole Wars chased them from their homeland, Tallahassee, in the 1800s. Today, visitors can experience their way of life and learn about their beliefs
at this village. Guided and self-guided tours of the superb museum and its grounds explore the history of the Miccosukee and their thatched huts, or chickee, with elevated floors. Members of the tribe give daring alligator presentations and demonstrate native crafts all day.

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  11. Big Cypress National Preserve

  Bald cypresses, furry critters, and feathered friends

  The US government legislated the creation of Big Cypress to put an end to logging operations that were depleting the forest of its tall, beautiful, bald cypress trees. The preserve provides a number of options for adventure enthusiasts. Begin at the Oasis Visitor Center or Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center. The Oasis’ boardwalk is a great place to see gators swimming down below. Walk the boardwalk at the Big Cypress and listen to the manatees blow as they surface for a breath of air. Pick up a map at either center and rent a kayak in Everglades City to paddle trails, or hike on part of the statewide Florida Trail. In the dry season, following one of the scenic drives is a good idea.

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  12. Everglades City

  Gateway to the Gulf Coast

  Bald cypress trees in Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve

  Located at the western entrance to the Everglades National Park, this sleepy little town offers opportunities for fishing, kayaking, and airboat rides. Nearby, there are attractions that introduce families to the Everglades’ unique plant and animal life. The Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve, 5 miles (8 km) north of town, is known for its wild orchids. Located 15 miles (24 km) to the northwest, the Collier-Seminole State Park is the place for biking, hiking, and camping. From here, head for Wooten’s Airboat Tours (www.wootenseverglades.com), 6 miles (9 km) to the northeast, where a gator pond and animal exhibits, as well as shows, supplement tours.

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  Kids’ Corner

  ’Glades vocab

  ’Glades: Long before Everglades National Park existed, the name Everglades was applied to the region and its ecology. “Ever” comes from the word “forever” and “glades” means a forest clearing. Locals call it ’Glades for short.

  Seminoles: The US government gave this name, which means “runaway,” to the almost 20 different tribes that migrated to Florida in its early days before statehood.

  Airboat: Specially made for Everglades travel by frog hunters, this noisy, jet-propelled craft practically flies across the local shallows.

  Swamp buggy: Engineered specifically for traveling across Everglades wetlands, its big tires and elevated bed make for high-and-dry touring.

  Sharp spotter

  On the drive across the Tamiami Trail, you will see lots of alligators alongside the parallel-running waterway. A little tricky to spot, they may be on the bank sunning themselves, or in the water. Take a close look at what appears to be a log. If you can see a snout and what looks like tire tread, you’ve got yourself a gator!

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  13. Key West

  Pirates, shipwrecks, and treasure

  Historic Seaport at Key West Bight

  Ever seen a six-toed cat or a man riding a bike with an iguana on his shoulder? Both sights are likely in Key West, the most popular destination in the Florida Keys. The Old Town, the city’s downtown core, is known for its party vibe. Nonetheless, a wealth of attractions and a history dating back to 19th-century pirates makes it a huge draw for families. It lies at the end of a necklace of keys (small islands) where wildlife encounters, beaches, parks, and watersports fill mellow days.

  Key Sights

  1. Historic Seaport at Key West Bight This restored neighborhood and its Harborwalk form the earthy heart of Old Town, filled with activity, shopping, dining, and watersports charters.

  2. Mallory Square Celebrate sunset every night at this cruise ship dock, with musicians and magicians, and conch fritter and margarita vendors.

  3. Key West Aquarium Built in 1934, this was the world’s first open-air aquarium, though it is now mostly enclosed. Take a tour to watch the guides feed sharks, stingrays, and sea turtles.

  4. Eco-Discovery Center This attraction shows off the Keys’ natural treasures – their valuable coral reef and ecosystems. Kids will like the walk-through model of an underwater ocean lab.

  5. Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park This Civil War-era fort sits on prime beachfront. Follow a fort tour with a dip and a nature hike.

  6. Key West Lighthouse Museum Climb the 88 steps to the top of the 92-ft (28-m) tower built here in 1844, for fine views. Go to the adjacent lighthouse-keeper’s home, where historic exhibits tell the story of the keepers.

  7. Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum Find about 50 six-toed cats snoozing around this house, where famous novelist Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote from 1931 to 1942.

  8. Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory Walk into a glass bubble that encases more than 40 species of butterflies, plus birds, waterfalls, and lush vegetation. The gift shop is also a must-visit.

  Left Key West Lighthouse Museum Middle Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park Right Entrance to Mallory Square

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  Kids’ Corner

  Turtle tale

  Five different types of endangered sea turtle inhabit the waters of the Florida Keys. What are they called?

  >> Answer

  Critter menu

  While learning about the Keys’ wildlife – its fish, dolphins, sharks, turtles, manatees, birds, butterflies, and deer – pay close attention to the kinds of food each animal likes to eat. Using paper and crayons, write and illustrate a dinner menu for all the animals you have encountered.

  Write on!

  Besides Hemingway, Key West has inspired Robert Frost, Tennessee Williams, and other great writers. See if you can become the next great Key West author by writing a short story using the prompt, “The first day I visited Key West, I could not believe…”

  Tricky … and sneaky

  Did you know that wreckers once made Key West the richest city in the world? The wreckers would deliberately cause shipwrecks by hanging lanterns near dangerous coral reefs. As ships crashed onto the reefs, the wreckers would row out to rescue passengers and crew, but they also grabbed any valuable cargo the ships were carrying.

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  < The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys

  14. Big Pine Key

  Home of the Key deer

  An alligator in the Blue Hole, a flooded limestone quarry in Big Pine Key

  Just over the bridge from downtown Key West, there is a distinct change of pace as the Overseas Highway takes visitors to a slower, more relaxed part of Florida.

  Look out for Mile Markers, the small green rectangular signs that mark the miles and give directions in the Keys. Around about MM 32, signs caution drivers to slow down to protect the endangered Key deer population of Big Pine Key. The best place to spot these undersized deer, fewer than 800 of which remain, is the National Key Deer Refuge at No Name Key. While in the refuge, visit the Blue Hole, an old quarry filled with water that is home to one resident alligator, as well as other wildlife, and then hike the easy trails.

  Big Pine Key is also known for fishing and kayaking. Paddling trails lead into refuge waters that look like a maze of mangrove islands. Follow a tour to avoid getting lost.

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